About midway through my European summer, I found myself faced with options. Sitting in my lovely air-conditioned room in Kotor, Montenegro, I’d run out of time to deliberate–a decision had to be made. I’d had my fill of little Montenegro by that point (and I mean that in the best way possible) and was eager to make moves to…somewhere.
I quickly ruled out Croatia–Dubrovnik was the only city within reach, and I’d heard tales of crowded beaches and sky-high prices from other travelers all summer long. Bosnia-Herzegovina was feasible, but a long journey to the capital of Sarajevo almost guaranteed I’d have to break up the trip with a short stay in Mostar, and I simply wasn’t in the mood for unnecessary stops.
Luckily, my third and final option would turn out to be not only the easiest, but also an excellent one; I’d zip down to Bar by bus and hop on an overnight train bound for Belgrade, the capital city of Serbia. I’d heard more than a few people extoll the virtues of Belgrade, and it just so happened that a fellow blogger was already there, generously offering me a few nights’ stay in her Airbnb. Yes, it seemed that all signs were pointing squarely in the direction of Belgrade; not being one to ignore such signs, off I went.
Reserving a bed in a sleeper car with my Eurail Global Pass was as easy as waltzing up to the ticket window, showing the pass, and paying a small fee to reserve the seat–around $8 USD. And although I didn’t know it yet, this particular train ride would turn out to be my most comfortable overnight journey, even in spite of my noisy cabinmates.
My middle row bed was at the perfect level for me to gaze out the window at the incredible scenery whizzing by before drifting off to sleep. Waking up the next morning, well-rested and only an hour or so from my destination, imparted me with a new special fondness for train travel; I’ve certainly never slept so well on a bus or a plane.
Upon arrival, I wandered in the general direction of my friend’s rental in search of coffee and a quick WiFi connection. My initial ramble through the city left me with mixed feelings. Blackened building facades seemed to serve as reminders of a turbulent recent history and lent the place an atmosphere I can only describe as hardened; and yet, at the same time, I felt surprisingly at ease.
Approaching the historic city center, the feeling of comfort really settled in. Even if I didn’t get the sense that “I could live here,” that very first day, the seed of the idea had been planted.
In the days that followed, my time was spent strolling the ample pedestrian streets of the city center, enjoying the many cafes lining the sidewalks, befriending street vendors selling fresh berries and 1€ ice cream, and admiring the beautiful architecture.
There never seemed a shortage of things to do, and when I encountered some travelers who’d been spending much of their time in Belgrade for many years, I immediately understood why.
I may tout just about every city in Europe as “one of my favorite destinations” or “the most beautiful” or “the most charming yet,” but for a city to strike me as a place I could actually see myself living is a rare thing indeed. Belgrade had that special quality, that vibrant energy, that never-ending-excitement factor that would eventually tempt me to return–or perhaps if I hadn’t already made up my mind to head back to Southeast Asia, tempt me to never leave.
Well-aware of my impending departure, I relished every moment; I spent rakia-fueled evenings dancing on river barges, afternoons discovering the city’s hipster enclaves, evenings cruising the city by motorbike with a grin plastered permanently across my face.
The one other city I’d encountered thus far that really tugged at my heartstrings in the same way was Barcelona, my very first point of entry into Europe. The two may have more dissimilarities than not, but something felt very reminiscent of the Catalonian capital to me. The architecture? The walking streets lined with flowers? The ubiquitous outdoor cafes, perhaps?
It didn’t much matter–whatever the reason, unsuspecting Belgrade was suddenly a front-runner. And so, when it came time to leave, I had the distinct feeling it wouldn’t be the last time we’d meet.
A few points of interest worth mentioning, should you ever find yourself in Belgrade:
Belgrade Fortress and its river views of the Sava and Danube
Republic Square, meeting point for many free walking tours or a great jumping off point for exploring independently
Freestyler and the many other popular river barge clubs lining the banks of the Sava River (that also function as cafes and restaurants during the day)
Skadarlija, the charming Old Bohemian Quarter, located very near to Republic Square
Fair & Square Hostel, a beautiful design hostel slightly off the beaten path in the neighborhood of Zvezdara
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Have you been to Belgrade? Would you ever consider living here?
