Machu Picchu: A Twice-in-a-Lifetime Experience

Visiting Machu Picchu–a UNESCO World Heritage site and wonder of the world–is, for most people, a once-in-a-lifetime experience and an accomplishment to check off on the ole bucket list.  I never imagined I would be so lucky as to have the opportunity to get to know these ancient ruins TWICE during my travels and in two very different ways.

Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail

I first visited the ruins after a grueling four-day hike on the Classic Inca Trail from a town called Ollantaytambo.

This particular trek books up well in advance, which left zero room for flexibility in my schedule; I booked my trek, which would depart from Cusco on October 25th, in early May.  After a couple months of leisurely travel through Venezuela, Colombia, and Ecuador, I hustled through the northern half of Peru to arrive in Cusco with a few days to acclimate to the city’s altitude of 3,400 meters and set off as prepared as possible on the 25th.

After a couple months of leisurely travel through Venezuela, Colombia, and Ecuador, I hustled through the northern half of Peru to arrive in Cusco with a few days to acclimate to the city’s altitude of 3,400 meters and set off as prepared as possible on the 25th.

October happens to be the start of a rainy season which grows gradually more intense moving into November and December (I have since been informed there is no such thing as summer in Cusco). I was fully aware of the possibility of inclement weather during my trek and assumed every day carried about a 50% chance of rain; the weather gods did NOT disappoint.

Each day, we endured several hours of some type of precipitation. At times it was only a light mist, but in tandem with healthy gusts of wind, the result was numb extremities, sore joints, and frosty faces. On top of being physically challenging, the Inca Trail was putting our mental and emotional stamina to the test as well.

I don’t want to give the wrong impression here–I really did enjoy this experience on many levels and the beauty we were surrounded by every day (when we could see it) was far more impressive than I could have imagined. The plunging, lusciously green valleys, and glacier-peaked mountains were truly breathtaking.

The last day of the trek required relatively little hiking compared to the 7-8 hours each day prior; we awoke at 3:30 am to eat a quick breakfast and depart for La Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) in order to arrive at 6 am to, theoretically, catch the sunrise with an astounding view of the ruins below.

The view upon reaching the Sun Gate lived up to expectations; the sun wasn’t shining but at least the fog cooperated.  I didn’t know it at the time, but admiring the ruins from this vantage point would turn out to be my favorite part of the day.

Once we arrived at the ruins, I have to admit I was a little underwhelmed.  The hoards of brightly-dressed tourists fresh off the train from Cusco, unwittingly ruining every photo opportunity and making Machu Picchu appear more like a high-altitude amusement park than the architectural treasure it really is, particularly ruffled my feathers.

Starving, exhausted and temperamental, the best my two Canadian friends and I could manage was to sit quietly through a less-than-inspiring tour while we counted down the minutes until we were free to head to Aguas Calientes for food, massages and hot showers.  In any case, the rain gods weren’t done with us yet; fog was already obscuring our views and we were once again forced to pull out rain coats and ponchos–we’d had enough.

I left Machu Picchu that day feeling rather discouraged; somehow the magic of the experience had eluded me, and as I would reminisce about the trip over the next few months the highlights were limited to experiences during the actual hike: the amazing views, the lesser-known ruins, the camaraderie with my hiking group, the sense of accomplishment after completing a challenging four days, even the surprisingly delicious meals–but not the ruins.

Machu Picchu by Car and Bus

December arrived with the exciting news that I would be joined in Cusco by my friend Andres from Ecuador, an architect from Quito with a particular affinity for a particular ancient Inca city.

It didn’t take much arm-twisting to convince me to visit Machu Picchu again, although we opted for the more economical option of taking a bus most of the way to the city of Aguas Calientes and then hoofing it a mere 3 hours on flat terrain the rest of the way (for around just $130, including a night’s accommodation in Aguas Calientes).

Aguas Calientes sits roughly at the base of Machu Picchu, and from here you have two options: wake up around 4 am to hike approximately 2 hours to the entrance of the ruins, or pay $9USD for a speeding bus to take you up the mountain via a narrow switchback dirt road. The rationale escapes me now, but we decided to hike.

Now a group of 3 (we were joined by another Ecuadorian, Sebastian, who made the last-minute decision to spend the new year in Cusco as well), we arrived at the ruins sweaty and out of breath just as the sunlight began to dance on some of the taller mountain peaks. With nothing but wispy hints of clouds in the sky (despite still being rainy season), I could already tell it was going to be an incredible day.

The first striking contrast between this trip and my previous one was the guided tour. The guide was engaging, knowledgeable and even used visual aids.  I didn’t feel the urge to yawn or sneak away from the group and I actually learned a bit. Imagine that.

The second and most important difference between the two trips was the weather. By the end of our tour, around 8:30 am, the sun had risen above the Sun Gate and was shining in full force.  It seemed to bring the ruins to life in a way I hadn’t seen before and which I can only describe as awe-inspiring.

The next 6 hours were spent wandering through the vast ruins dumbfounded by our good fortune and taking full advantage of the gorgeous lighting–that postcard-worthy type photographers dream of. Even on the multiple occasions we found ourselves lost, unable to find an exit, or spinning in circles, we didn’t mind.

For a brief period, the sun was obscured by fog that seemed to descend on us from every direction simultaneously.  It lent an entirely new feeling to the experience, the mystical and mysterious ambiance which is probably more common than unrelenting sunshine, and again, we didn’t mind.

Every now and then, we simply stopped where we were and sat, taking the time to absorb and take joy in our surroundings–something I most definitely wasn’t able to do during my first visit.  At the end of our long day, we walked back down to town, sunburnt and content, our hearts overflowing with a newly discovered, profound appreciation for this beautiful site.

For me, Machu Picchu now occupies a significant space in my heart, and if it’s not too brazen to say, I think it probably will for the rest of my life. Had I not returned for a closer look, I can’t necessarily say the same would have been true. We don’t always get second chances in life, but I think it’s safe to say I’ll be taking advantage of the ones that do come along from now on.

Reward at the end of the Inca Trail--Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate
Reward at the end of the Inca Trail–Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate.
Machu Picchu in the early morning hours.
The beauty of Machu Picchu in the morning light. Visit number two.
Machu Picchu
I got a little camera happy.
Machu Picchu
Ok…a lot camera happy.
Machu Picchu
…but just LOOK at this!
Machu Picchu
Gorgeous.

Both routes to Machu Picchu have their benefits.  Would you prefer to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or arrive by car and train?

10 comments

  • Allison Vella

    Visiting Machu Piccu is high up on my bucket list and I thoroughly enjoyed your post, specifically the fact that you’ve experienced two routes to get there. While I always assured myself that when the time comes I’m going by way of the Inca Trail, your description of the four day trek has put into perspective what that actually entails. So thank you for opening my mind to the lax route. I look forward to all of your posts yet to come!

  • Jason

    Awesome that you got to experience Macchu Picchu twice in two entirely different ways in a matter of two months!

    I visited after completing the Salcantay trek, and when we arrived in Aguas Calientes I remember telling those who were with me that the hike up to the ruins was going to be an absolute breeze after what we had just done. An absolute breeze it was not. In fact, there was no breeze; and even though I remember feeling nearly frozen when my alarm buzzed at 4 AM and throwing on all of the layers I had been wearing trekking at higher altitudes in the days prior I was sweating buckets within ten minutes of climbing stairs and was almost certainly dehydrated by the time we reached the site. I’ve laid all this out with the hope that you can appreciate the excellent laugh I enjoyed when I got to the last line of this paragraph:

    “Aguas Calientes sits roughly at the base of Machu Picchu, and from here you have two options: wake up around 4am to hike approximately 2 hours to the entrance of the ruins, or pay $9USD for a speeding bus to take you up the mountain via a narrow switchback dirt road. The rationale escapes me now, but we decided to hike.”

    We opted to take the bus back down to Aguas Calientes.

    • LaMochilera

      Haha I think we were trying to be frugal and also didn’t want to seem lazy. But I agree, that hike is no walk in the park and at the very least people should be warned that they will NOT look super fresh for photos if they go that route!

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  • Valeria @ Rome, New York, London, World

    Well I just found out hiking is not the only way to reach Machu Pichu and I’m very relieved. From pictures I see how beautiful it is and I really want to go, but hiking is just not my cup of tea. But getting there with a bus for $9! Count me in!
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    • La Mochilera (author)

      Before I went to Peru, I thought the only way to get to Machu Picchu was to hike the Inca Trail as well. A tour from Cusco by car (including entrance to the ruins and a night’s accommodation in Aguas Calientes) can be as little as $150, compared to the $600+ you pay for the Inca Trail. Hope you get there soon! 🙂

  • Radhika - Fulltime Nomad

    I love that you experienced it twice! We did the “lazy” route to Machu Picchu – train to Aguas Calientes and then the bus up there. We had every intention of doing the jungle trek but got terrible altitude sickness in Cusco and couldn’t do it. But, I really want to do the Inca Trail some day and experience Machu Picchu all over again.
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    • La Mochilera (author)

      How great would it be if you could go back one day to hike the Inca Trail! Nothing wrong with taking the “lazy” route, as you say, but it’s a very different way to experience Machu Picchu. Altitude sickness is no joke!
      La Mochilera recently posted…Month in Review: May 2015My Profile

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Thanks, I really had amazing luck with the weather on my second visit! 🙂

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